Look, I’ve completely nothing towards vitamin C serums, however they do include one main gripe: Many formulation are tremendous unstable, specifically ones containing L-ascorbic acid, which is essentially the most pure and efficient type of vitamin C.
“Ascorbic acid is water-soluble and is not very stable in solution, but can be best stabilized at a lower pH—this acidity can be irritating to sensitive skin,” says board-certified dermatologist Hadley King, M.D. That’s why specialists suggest discovering a formulation with a focus of 10% ascorbic acid or decrease when you have simply irritated pores and skin. Board-certified dermatologist Geeta Yadav, M.D., founding father of FACET Dermatology, seconds the warning: “This ingredient performs best in formulas at a pH of 4 or below, but those with sensitive skin types do better with formulas that are closer to the skin’s natural pH levels, around 6,” she tells mbg.
However! As the sourcing and know-how develop into an increasing number of modern, manufacturers have found out weave in numerous varieties at clinically efficient ranges with zero irritation. For instance, tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate (also called THD ascorbate) is an oil-soluble model of the antioxidant and mostly utilized in facial oils and moisturizers—so you possibly can have your vitamin C and reap hydration advantages, too.
“A vitamin C moisturizer is a great way to add the ingredient into your routine,” Yadav notes. “Vitamin C is known for brightening skin—but if skin is dehydrated, it’ll maintain a dull appearance. By combining the hydrating and nourishing benefits of a moisturizer with the brightening and free-radical fighting benefits of vitamin C, you’ll get the best of both worlds.”
And as a result of moisturizers usually comprise extra secure types of vitamin C, you possibly can layer in your hydrating serums with out worry that the brightening antioxidant received’t do its job. In reality, “Some studies have suggested that the fatty acid component of THD ascorbate may allow better penetration into the skin,” King says, because of the ingredient’s oil-soluble skill.